Stepping Into a Coup

“What struck me in Myanmar at that time was this heart-cracking innocence, this astonishing, almost childlike-faith in how the world works, that the international community would somehow step in, and on the side of justice, right when this very dark force was starting to spread its tentacles across the country again.”

Paul Salopek is a journalist and explorer best known for his Out of Eden Walk, a global storytelling project retracing the ancient migration routes of early Homo sapiens as a means to explore the connections between history, geography, and modern society. A two-time Pulitzer Prize-winning foreign correspondent, he has already walked thousands of miles and across continents, covering wars, environmental crises, and the adaptation of cultures to rapid, technological change. Through what he terms as “slow journalism,” Paul immerses himself in local cultures in order to capture more nuanced narratives. By embracing the pace of ancient travel, he challenges the norms of conventional reporting, offering a richer perspective on human experience and global change.

Paul entered Myanmar in early 2020, crossing the border in northeastern India. Traversing jungle-clad mountains and rivers, he traveled through remote villages, immersing himself in the rhythms of daily life. He walked alongside ethnic Chin and Lisu companions, absorbing the diverse cultural tapestry of the land. Sleeping in temples and rural homes, he documented stories of resilience and change as communities dealt the growing pandemic. As he moved deeper into the country, his focus settled on history, geography, and human connection, unaware of the far greater upheaval that lay just ahead.

This came in the form of the military coup in Myanmar on February 1st, 2021, soon after Paul had entered Yangon and was quarantined in a hotel. Initially unaware of the scale of the unrest, he swiftly transitioned into survival mode through his instincts as a seasoned war correspondent. The internet cut and chaos swelling, he witnessed the raw, electric pulse of defiance—young protesters, full of hope, crafting makeshift shields, believing the world would intervene. He felt the heartbreak of innocence meeting brutality, of poets and students falling to bullets, of a movement so noble yet so outmatched. He walked through streets thick with fear and resolve, documenting a nation’s anguish, knowing the cavalry would never come, yet moved by the sheer courage of those who stood.

Paul Salopek remains hopeful despite the immense challenges faced by the Burmese people. “The Burmese themselves have taken matters into their own hands, at enormous human cost, and appear to be fighting bravely and heroically against the junta and possibly even pushing it back,” he says. Paul urges foreign allies to not let the country fade into the background, saying, “Keep Myanmar in your heart, keep it in front of your eyes. Do whatever you can to help the people of Myanmar.”