Beyond the Golden Triangle
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Nyan Linn Htet never planned to be a journalist. Growing up in Yangon, his early life was relatively sheltered, far removed from the turmoil that plagued much of the countryside. At that time, during the 1990s, Myanmar was experiencing profound oppression and poverty, with a military dictatorship firmly in control and tensions brewing across the ethnic regions. Journalism came to Nyan Linn Htet gradually, sparked by an urge to tell the stories that no one else seemed interested in. This passion eventually drew him to eastern Shan State, where he found not only stories that needed telling, but challenges that tested his own resolve and capacity for bravery.
In 2018, he moved to Tachileik, a town in eastern Myanmar situated on the borders of Thailand and China. Here, he founded Mekong News—an outlet dedicated to covering the complex dynamics of eastern Shan State. This region is a crossroads of cultures and a hub for both licit and illicit activity, from isolated minority communities to thriving narcotics trade to the armed groups that operated out of sight of Yangon and Naypyidaw. “There are a lot of challenges to cover these issues, because in that area, people can be killed easily,” he says grimly.
Despite his unfamiliarity with Tachileik, Nyan Linn Htet was determined to dive deep into the region's complexities. Besides seeking out stories of ethnic communities, like the Akha and Lahu, he explored stories of armed groups, of the opium poppy fields and of drug trade … and of people just trying to survive in a region dominated by uncertainty and conflict.
“In Shan State, the situation is different than other parts of the country,” he says. This is because the region has become a patchwork of shifting political alliances, where the Myanmar military's influence overlaps uneasily with powerful ethnic armed organizations like the United Wa State Army (UWSA) and the Restoration Council of Shan State (RCSS). The region is marked by fragile ceasefires, fluctuating loyalties, and the ever-present threat of renewed violence. He notes how the USWA has significant military power and autonomy, and that they maintain a relationship with the regime without fully obeying their directives. The RCSS faces a different situation, having to navigate between the Myanmar military and the USWA, avoiding direct conflict with both sides. “They are acting more like a ‘water-follows-fish’ type of relation.”
The volatile environment made the dangers of truthful reporting starkly apparent. Ethnic militias, military informants, and criminal networks all had a stake in controlling the flow of information, and stepping on the wrong toes could well mean one's life. For example, he once attempted to report on the assassination of a prominent businessman in Tachileik, an event linked to the region’s drug trade and local power struggles. His investigation attracted unwanted attention; soon, both Nyan Linn Htet and his sources began receiving threats. Faced with the risk of violence, he had no choice but to abandon the story for the safety of everyone involved.
Despite these challenges, Mekong News managed to grow, carving out a reputation for courageous, in-depth reporting that tackled subjects few others dared to touch. But after the coup of February 1, 2021, the junta cracked down hard on dissenting voices, drastically curtailed the limited space that had existed for independent media. The Myanmar military’s grip tightened around the neck of free expression, and journalists became targets. The crackdown on journalists was swift and brutal; staying in Myanmar would have meant certain arrest … or worse. Mekong News, like many other independent media outlets, had to operate in exile.
Nyan Linn Htet had no choice but to flee across the border into Thailand. There he relies on a network of trusted informants to stay updated on the shifting dynamics in Shan State. His reporting is certainly more challenging without direct access, but he is determined to continue shedding light on the region's struggles.
In discussing post-coup developments, Nyan Linn Htet notes that the RCSS immediately declared its opposition to the junta, making it the first ethnic armed group (EAO) to do so. One difficulty they are currently facing concerns the presence of PDFs (People’s Defense Forces) in Shan State, many of whom were trained by the USWA’s allied groups such as the TNLA (Ta’ang National Liberation Army) and KIA (Kachin Independence Army). Yet the USWA, itself, has remained largely silent on the coup. It only released a statement in 2023, after a meeting with Min Aung Hlaing, framing the conflict as a matter solely between the Burmese military and the Bamar people. “Every leader of the EAOs talk about federal democracy, but it may be their second political aim. To get their control of their area is the first political aim,” he says. “I don't mean they are not interested in federal democracy. Maybe federal democracy is their final aim.”
Life in exile is not easy, financial instability being a pressing concern. Cut off from local advertising revenue, Mekong News now depends entirely on scarce grants and international donors. Securing enough funding has been a constant struggle, with each day bringing fresh uncertainty about the outlet’s survival.
Exile has also brought Nyan Linn Htet significant, personal risk: the junta's reach extends far beyond Myanmar’s borders, and he faces ongoing threats to his personal safety. He has had to relocate multiple times, while also needing to navigate an uncertain immigration status that leaves him vulnerable.
He has also had to confront uncomfortable pressure to be partisan, to counter the military’s propaganda; resistance forces feel that “independent” media should amplify their messaging in the service of the revolution. But Nyan Linn Htet’s dedication to objective journalism has led to backlash, which happened after they published a story that exposed abuses committed by a local People’s Defense Force (PDF). But despite facing threats, Nyan remains resolute in his commitment to journalistic integrity, holding all sides accountable regardless of the consequences.
Despite the many hardships, Nyan Linn Htet has found inspiration in the resilience of the everyday people he’s met—small farmers, village elders, and others—who continue to believe in a better future, even in the face of overwhelming odds. One story that particularly moved him was that of a Lahu woman, who, deprived of proper healthcare, resorted to methamphetamine to help endure the pain of childbirth, a heartbreaking testament to what is demanded of individuals in such dire circumstances.
Nyan Linn Htet also describes the dangerous task of investigating the drug trade in Shan State, which is deeply tied to local livelihoods and fraught with threats from drug lords, the military, and ethnic armed groups. “In Tachileik, you can find drugs on any street, and the price is very low.” The narcotics economy, though illicit, was often the only means of survival for many impoverished families. Mekong’s investigations have documented not just the mechanics of the drug trade, but the impact it has on the lives of those caught in its crossfire. While there have been occasional reports of drug manufacturing sites being raided by the authorities, they were largely performative, as drug production quickly resumed afterward.
In 2023, Mekong News published an exposé of “scam centers” operating in Tachileik, where trafficked workers, many from neighboring countries, have been coerced into engaging in online scams. These centers are a grim reflection of the exploitation that flourishes in regions with little oversight. Despite threats from the overlords running these operations, Nyan Linn Htet and his team have refused to back down, driven by a determination to bring to light the human suffering involved.
Today, Nyan Linn Htet continues his work from exile, still committed to chronicling Myanmar’s often-overlooked stories, and ensuring that the voices of marginalized communities are not silenced. He remains hopeful of one day returning to Tachileik, not just personally, but for all those still there who continue to believe in the possibility of a better future. He remains steadfast in his belief that journalism’s core mission is to shine a light on the truth, regardless of the obstacles or dangers involved.
If you would like to go into further topics raised by Nyan Linn Htet in this interview, we recommend the following episodes:
· Patrick Winn offers an exploration into the vast, complex world of Myanmar's narcotics trade, particularly in the Golden Triangle region. He sheds light on how drugs have become a powerful force impacting local and regional dynamics, and delves into the intersections of organized crime, geopolitics, and community resilience. His reporting is a compelling narrative for those interested in Myanmar's socio-political struggles and the intricate forces shaping its future.
· Jane Ferguson delves into the cultural identity and ethnic diversity in Shan areas, drawing parallels with Myanmar’s broader socio-political landscape. Her exploration of Shan State’s historical and contemporary conflicts captures themes of resilience and the complex dynamics of unity, making it particularly relevant for those interested in Myanmar’s ethnic and national struggles.
· Brian Perkins provides a behind-the-scenes look at his film set in a rural Shan monastery, discussing his efforts to portray monastic life with authenticity and minimal Western interference, against the backdrop of armed conflict. He reflects on how nature, monastic routines, and Burmese and Shan Buddhist traditions shaped the film’s narrative, resulting in a quiet, meditative exploration of the impact of ethnic violence on the religious life.
· Jessica Mudditt describes the complex challenges of journalism during Myanmar’s transition period, where local journalists faced unprecedented freedom to report on previously forbidden issues, yet had to operate cautiously, and under sometimes restrictive conditions. Her experience highlights how both foreign and Burmese reporters navigated the first, tentative steps toward press freedoms, balancing the risks of political sensitivity with the excitement of documenting Myanmar's democratic evolution.
· Min Ma Naing shares her journey as a photographer, capturing stories of resilience, particularly with Shan and other ethnic groups in Myanmar. Her work emphasizes the themes of unity and sisterhood across cultures. Her experience working in areas like Lashio highlights the beauty of inter-ethnic bonds, especially within the unique environment of a nunnery, where young nuns from diverse backgrounds coexist peacefully, and provide a nuanced perspective on Myanmar’s ethnic landscape.