A Taste of Resilience: The Culinary Migrations of Burmese Cuisine
We are pleased to bring you our first panel of 2024, entitled “A Taste of Resilience: The Culinary Migrations of Burmese Cuisine.” This will be the first panel discussion being co-sponsored by Better Burma/Insight Myanmar and Bamama, in our new joint series called “Breaking Bread,” an ongoing discussion which will explore the intersections between cuisine, culture, identity, and community.
Event Details
The event will take place via Zoom at the following times:
Los Angeles: 5 pm, February 8
New York: 8 pm, February 8
Paris: 2.00 am, February 9
Yangon: 7.30 am, February 9
Sydney: Noon, February 9
You can register for this event here, on Zoom. The maximum attendance for this event on Zoom is 100 people, so secure your spot soon by signing up. Then, be sure to then log into the event promptly when it starts, as Zoom will deny access after the attendance limit is reached! If there is an overflow, you will also be able to participate by streaming the event on our Facebook page or YouTube page.
Participants
We are honored to be hosting these four wonderful guests:
Kenneth Wong, a Burmese-American author, translator, and language teacher, will deliver the welcoming remarks. Born and raised in Yangon, he currently lives in San Francisco, California, and teaches Burmese language at UC Berkeley. His essays, short stories, articles, and poetry translations have appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle, AGNI, Portside Review, The Irrawaddy, Myanmar Times, Two Lines Press, The Journal of Burma Studies and others
Ma Nandar is a feminist activist, a storyteller and a podcaster from Shan State, Myanmar. Her passion for justice and equity started early in life when she began to question the cultural norms in her community that she felt demeaned women’s and girls’ lives. She is the Founder and Executive Director of the Purple Feminists Group, and co-organized and co-directed The Vagina Monologues show in Myanmar and Thailand. After the fallout from the military coup and the ensuing trauma and instability, Nandar turned to food for a familiar and comforting memory of home; cooking has become a form of therapy for her, like it is for so many other displaced Burmese.
Htet Khine Soe (Ko Htet) became involved in political activism during his university years. He participated in the Saffron Revolution in 2007, which led to him being targeted by the military regime, forcing him into hiding for the first time. He joined the Food Not Bombs movement the following year, and then became a Student Union leader who protested against the National Education Law. He again faced arrest in 2015 on multiple charges, leading to another period of hiding. He faced arrest yet again in 2021, and in the hunt for him, his roommate's father was killed. Eventually, he escaped to Mae Sot on the Thai border, where he continues to reside with his family, working to help his friends mentally and physically through Food Not Bombs activities.
Thin Lei Win is an acclaimed multimedia journalist with a career spanning nearly 13 years as a correspondent for the Thomson Reuters Foundation. In addition to founding Myanmar Now, she also co-founded The Kite Tales, a distinctive storytelling and preservation project that documents the lives and stories of ordinary people throughout Myanmar and supports Burmese journalists and illustrators. Thin Lei Win has reported on humanitarian issues, with a focus on climate change and food security. Her passion extends beyond journalism to the culinary world; she is an avid food enthusiast who delights in both cooking and eating, and enjoys feeding friends and family. Her fervor for food has led her to delve into the intricacies of food systems. She explores topics such as the origins of our food, the processes of its production and consumption, the persistent issue of hunger, and the impact of agriculture on climate change.
The Program
We invite you to embark on a journey with our guests as they talk about the intricate tapestry woven by the flavors, aromas, and stories of Burmese food. Yet it is not merely an exploration of culinary delights—it is also a profound narrative of resilience, identity, and unity in the face of upheaval.
At the heart of this discourse is the rich and diverse heritage of Burma, weaving together tales of culture, ethnicity, and the indomitable spirit of its people. Each dish, from the humblest street food to the most elaborate feast, carries within it the whispers of history, the struggles, and the hopes of a nation.
Hidden amid the vibrant mosaic of Burmese cuisine are poignant stories of displacement and diaspora. The panel sheds light on how, for refugees anywhere, every spice and ingredient they bring across borders is a testament to their resilience, that they carry some essence of their homeland with them as they forge new identities in places far away. This discussion is a testament to how, in these most tumultuous times, the rich, intricate flavors of Burmese cuisine should continue to remind us of the enduring human spirit and the relentless pursuit of freedom, dignity and democracy.
An Interactive Meal
But there’s more: we are taking a unique approach to this program in the timeless tradition of building community, and despite the distances that separate us. This series will be a testament to the power of food in bridging gaps, fostering connections, and nurturing the spirit of togetherness, even in a virtual space. As we navigate the constraints of our virtual gathering, we will transcend physical boundaries by inviting participants to directly contribute to a shared experience through a unique culinary experience.
In this inaugural session, we will be providing a recipe for the ethnic Karen soup known as talabaw, which we encourage guests to prepare in their homes along with Timothy, our live cook, as he prepares this favorite dish in real time during the panel discussion. As he stirs and simmers, so can you, transforming ingredients into connections, and kitchens into communal spaces. While the act of physically breaking bread (or sharing a pot of rice) together may elude us, the essence of sharing a meal, a conversation, and a moment transcends the limitations of our screens. This immersive experience is not just a demonstration but an invitation – an invitation to each participant to embark on their own culinary adventure.
Though not obligatory, we warmly encourage those participants who choose to chop and cook while listening to keep their cameras on! Let us create a mosaic of faces, kitchens, and cultures, each adding a unique hue to the tapestry of our gathering. As the flavors simmer in your pots, let conversations flow, stories unfold, and laughter resonate. This is not just a panel; it's a communal table extending across continents, inviting everyone to savor not just the taste of Burmese cuisine but the essence of human connection.
A Wider Mission
Finally, we extend an invitation to all our attendees to consider supporting our mission with a donation. Your generosity will be greatly appreciated, and all contributions will be divided equally between the respective missions of Better Burma and Bamama. These funds will directly support our ongoing efforts to support vulnerable communities impacted by the military coup, as well as to advocate for democracy and human rights in the region.
As we come together to indulge in the stories and tastes of Burmese cuisine, your donation becomes a part of this culinary bridge, enhancing the connection between the people of Burma and the global community. With your help, we can continue to break bread and boundaries, fostering a deeper understanding and appreciation of Burma's heritage and its people's unwavering spirit.
About the Co-Hosts
Better Burma is a US-based non-profit organization formed in response to the February 2021 military coup in Myanmar. It aims to assist the Burmese people in their struggle for freedom and democracy by promoting democratic values and providing emergency relief to those affected by the crisis. Better Burma’s projects include supporting sustainable community development programs and operating media platforms to raise awareness of the ongoing situation in Myanmar.
Bamama is a culinary and cultural project started by Trish, a chef and activist from Myanmar. It began as a way to create food content but has grown into a community-building and product-based business. Bamama not only preserves traditional recipes from various ethnic minorities in Myanmar but also empowers displaced individuals by involving them in the project. Through Bamama Cooks, Trish uses cuisine as a means to raise awareness about the situation in Myanmar, celebrate its diverse food heritage, and help her community find strength and connection in a foreign land.
Thank you for your support, and welcome to the table of solidarity.
The Meal
Now, please see the detailed recipe of talabaw, so that you can consider stocking up on the ingredients before the panel!
The Karen people originate from southeastern Myanmar, though due to the conflict, many have sought refuge in Thailand's border region or in refugee camps. Over the recent decades, Karen cuisine has evolved under the challenging conditions they have faced as one of the country’s non-Bamar minorities; it has become a testament to the Karen people’s resilience and adaptability. Infused with local herbs, vegetables, and spices, Karen dishes often feature ingredients from their natural surroundings, such as bamboo shoots, which is a staple in that region.
Talabaw, a renowned, traditional soup, exemplifies the Karens’ culinary ingenuity. It's thickened with pounded rice and enriched with bamboo shoots. This hearty soup is a cultural staple, particularly during "Saduditha," a widespread communal offering practice in Myanmar. In these events, which take place in religious and community spaces like temples and churches, food is generously shared among attendees at no cost, fostering a sense of community and solidarity.
The Recipe
INGREDIENTS (Serves 2)
20g (1tb) White Rice (uncooked)
1 cup bamboo shoots (Not the fermented kind) cut into thin slices)
1 medium-sized Red Snapper or Sea Bass (traditionally, the Snakehead is used)
1 red onion (thickly sliced)
½ tbsp fermented fish paste (nga-pi in Burmese / ka-pi pla in Thai); 1 tbsp miso or other fermented paste options may be substituted.
1 liter Water
1 sprig Thai basil (6-8 leaves; substitute with any kinds of basil)
2 garlic cloves (minced)
2-3 chilis
4 tbsp fish sauce
Black Pepper
Salt
Notes:
Other vegetables such as pumpkin, mushrooms, eggplant, potatoes, carrots, bok choy or kale can also be added to the soup.
For vegetarian options, substitute the fish with mushrooms (preferably shiitake) and season with kelp dashi or vegan fish sauce (see below).
DIRECTION
To prepare in advance:
Soak white rice in water at least 1 hour ahead. Then pound or blend it into a paste.
Filet the fish. Grill, or lightly sauté in a hot pan with little to no oil. After the filets are cooked, cut into pieces. (This cooking step adds charred smokiness to the soup.)As an optional step, if you have a grill, besides the fish, grill the fermented fish paste (on a wooden spoon). Otherwise, you can just add it directly to the soup.
Chop any vegetables beforehand.
Cooking:
Place bamboo shoots, grilled (or sauteed) fish, fermented fish paste and onion slices in a medium pot. Add the water and 1 tablespoon of oil. Bring to a boil.
Add any additional vegetables.
When the bamboo shoots are soft, add the rice paste. Bring to a boil, and simmer until slightly thick.
Season to taste with fish-sauce, salt and pepper.
Remove from heat. Add basil and chili but do not stir.
Serve with rice!
For Vegan Fish Sauce:
1 1/2 cups shredded seaweed/wakame
6 cups water
6 fat cloves garlic, crushed but not peeled
1 T peppercorns
1 cup mushroom soy sauce
1 T miso
Directions: Combine wakame, garlic, peppercorns and water in a large sauce pan and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer about 20 minutes. Strain and return the liquid back to the pot. Add soy sauce, bring back to a boil and cook until mixture is reduced and almost unbearable salty. Remove from heat and stir in miso.
