Yangon Expat Journal: A Return

The following essay submission comes from an expat who spent many years in Yangon but was displaced with the coup, and has recently returned.

It's been several weeks I've been here. I got a nice apartment cheap; woulda cost $1000 five years ago, now it's $400. People are edgy, pissed off. Unlike the past in pre-reform era when no one would talk at all about “the lady of deemocracee,” no one is afraid to talk about "the coup" and "the military situation." Especially the new generation, they are not shy at all. But there's a heavy undertow of forced resignation. No place is safe, there's a curfew from 10'ish although officially 12 to 4, no one wants to be outside at night. All the expat spots in San Chaung, like Winstar, have no expats at all. I go everywhere and it also seems the young people can't speak English like they did before. I know there are expats around, I just never see one. It's been like 2009. Road blocks and checkpoints are all over, they pop up and change location. I heard there are about 10 or 12 from Mandalay to Yangon on the overnight bus.

Oddly, there seems to be fewer people in crowded places, eyes follow every step, especially at dusk, there's a heavy presences of watchers and they are not hiding. I was told the embassy is on a skeleton staff. I think I won't go near there.

I don't feel bothered, but it's definitely not like before, and even taxi drivers tell me to be careful, not safe like it was. I can feel it. I wanted to get in touch with old friends but I think right now it's better not to bring attention to anyone.

I wish you will think I'm being dramatic, or exaggerating, but I don't think I am. A guy was teaching at a school in Nay Pyi Daw for about five years, he posted on FB he was in Laos because he left to renew his visa and take a break in BKK. Then he was denied an new visa. I've heard many teachers are afraid to leave to renew, but I thought one needn't leave to renew. Rumors everywhere.

I just waked through Bogyoke, about a quarter of the stalls are closed. Even Traders / Shang Ri La is closed. That sucks cuz I wanted to get some decent bread. Prices are very high for everything, all the people complain about it.

The one thing that hasn't changed is the traffic is still bad. Otherwise, taxis charge three time what they charged in 2019.

Yet, I still love being here.